India

A land of many contrasts

So far in our travels we have only visited "KERELA" which is listed as one of the places to visit before you die and we couldn't agree more as the first impression is of a place the people care for and truly like meeting tourists and showing them what's happening in their area. This part of India would be best visited in spring to avoid the monsoons as it shares its coastline with the Arabian sea having the exotic "Lakshadweep" islands not far of the coast, with flights from Trivandrum airport or by ferry from Cochin. These islands are as beautiful as the Maldives but nowhere as commercialised having only a few islands open to tourists , shop around as the prices vary from one place to another and the best deals are done in "US" dollars and allow a week to visit while having a rest from the chaotic mainland.

KERALA-Gods own country

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cow drawn cart

We started our visit by arriving on a flight into Trinandrum airport to be met by the renowned Indian customs who all require a stamp before letting you start your holiday, after a short ride in a old Ambassador taxi we arrived at the beach resort of "Kovalam" a busy place set over 3or 4 coves. We chose to stay near to the light house in a hotel owned by the samudra group basic by European standards but fine for this country with a good restaurant and pool should you wish to stay in the hotel. The main beach area of "lighthouse beach" is great with a beach area watched over by life guards as the beach has a strong under currant where you can easily  drown should you venture out too far, all along this beach are the main beach cafe's and shops selling everything with even internet access and in the evening you can eat in the small restaurants on traditional Kerela'n food while looking out to sea watching the fishermen bob about in there boats light by small lights. The food is excellent from the vegetarian to the sea food curries all cooked to your taste be it mild or mouth wateringly hot all washed down with a local "kingfisher" beer wrapped in paper to avoid the taxes or you can buy various goods like "Lungi's" and sunglasses off the beach sellers but don't forget to bargain hard.

local tuk tuk stand

quiet backwaters

local food

click on images to enlarge

Behind the village are some small rice paddies with interconnecting paths where the local's grow bananas, mangoes and bread fruit in the dry season and rice and tapioca in the rainy season. A short walk  up hill and you arrive at Kovolam junction were the local buses wait to take you on a unforgettable ride , we tended to use the ambassador taxi's which cost about £15 a day with a driver who will take you were ever you want to go be it Trivandrum town with its large temple and bustling back streets with small shops selling spices and cloth from all over India . Or you could go up into the Western Ghats and visit the tea plantations or "Periyvar wildlife sanctuary" as the air is much cooler and fresher than on the coast but allow a full day as the road twists and turns up the steep hillsides but regardless of where you go just get out and explore this remarkable state.

The two most unforgettable experiences  we had were a trip along the quiet "backwaters" in a small boat punted along this truly amassing place with the local people turning dried coconut husks into "coiya" for rope and watching the various wildlife now I know were it got its name "Gods Country" from ,the other being a bit of an adventure as we set out looking for a small village festival which turned out to have everything from Elephants to acrobats  and as night came they had the fire walkers who walked over red hot embers a experience not to  be missed and the best thing of all was the fact that not to many tourists were there so it felt even more special.

 

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Trivundum temple

 

If time allows maybe over a 2 month trip you could visit the north via "cochia" and sample the much larger back waters on a large rice boat converted for tourist trips on a 2 day boat cruise, before seeing the "Kalarippayat" displays a mix of ancient martial arts and discipline or the "Kathakali" performers who do a dance routine to music dressed in colourful clothes and wearing strange face paint/masks. 

After all this excitement why not have a traditional "Ayurvedic" massage which aims to restore the balance and good health in the body through massage and especially the head massage with oils a truly relaxing experience, you can feel the body relax with every touch of the masseur and most people who experience this have 2 or 3 over the coarse of their holiday.

We found the best book to take along is the "Lonely planet guides" to southern India and to cheque out the Web site of the "Kerela'n tourist office" who's site is very helpful and full of colour pictures.